Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Kyle Brown


For this week's blog post, my first, I chose to go with two pictures I personally took with my digital camera while in Amsterdam two weekends ago.  Both of them have a small story involved.  The top picture was taken in the first coffee shop upon our arrival.  We were amazed not only at how easy it was to get a joint or gram but also the atmosphere of the room as a whole.  I personally like the painting so I figured I'd document it for others to see.  On the bottom is a picture of Amsterdam's skyline.  After I missed my flight, I went back to town and met up with people I made friends with throughout the weekend.  One of the guys brought me back to his apartment to look up flights for the following day and he also brought me to his apartment's rooftop (8th floor) for this picture.  This is when I really wish I had my "nice" camera because I really enjoyed the view. 



Above is a light meter depicted.  I wanted to look this up and describe it a little bit because I think the professor's light meter in class helps make the process more precise.  As has been demonstrated in class they are used to determine photographic exposure.  It also helps to determine the correct shutter speed and f number which also help to provide a more clean photo.  Many cameras, like the one provided to me for this class, have a built in light meter.  I look through the lens and can only take a picture when the lens doesn't have a black light depicted.  When one is depicted my camera doesn't allow me to take the picture.  The difference between the built in light meter and the portable light meter is my built in meter does not tell me what shutter speed or f number and the portable one we use in class obviously does tell us.  Ciao, see everyone tomorrow.







Above is a picture I took in my on-site sociology class.  While I know the lighting isn't great and I still have my signature date and time in the photo I still love this picture.  I enjoy it so much because it somewhat describes Rome for me.  Where I grew up there are very few historical/important buildings around.  In this picture alone there are two historical temples.  In the front is the temple that used to house prostitutes (don't remember the name) and seen in the background is the temple of Hercules.   


Of the list I chose to write/research about photographer Stanley Kubrick.  I was instantly drawn to him when we briefly spoke about him in class and saw a few of his photos.  I enjoyed his photos very much, but wanted to learn more about him when it was brought to my attention that he also worked in the movie industry.  He was born in 1928 and died in 1999.  By his death he was widely acknowledged as one of the greatest film writers of all time.  Three movies of his I saw and enjoyed are as follows: "The shining", "A Clockwork Orange" and my favorite "Dr. Strangelove".  Below are two pictures of Stanley Kubrick doing some of the things he loved.


Ciao.



I unfortunately do not have access to my personal photos right now since I am currently working on a school computer but when I return from classes late tonight I will be sure to post a photo or two that I took with my digital camera this week.  My apologies about that.  

After learning a little more about Mr. Kubrick I have become much more intrigued.  Here is an interview I watched on youtube.  It is quite lengthy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6BjgA37qyI .  This interview shows "The art of Stanley Kubrick" as they put it.  It discusses how while he does many things (photographer, director, screenwriter, etc.) his first and true love is photography and you can see that depicted in much of his other work.  He is a seemingly very meticulous guy who worked hours on end perfecting his craft and made sure everything had his signature touch to it.  Like his films, his photographs covered a wide range of genres.  He even designed special lenses for a few of his films to make sure the film looked like it was under natural candlelight.  I thought that it was very interesting that many of his movies were based on novels or short stories.  It is almost like he was taking his early experiences in photography and using that to help him put pictures to words in a book and then from there adding movements and other aspects of film.





I like these photos because I really think they get the essence of Mr. Kubrick down perfectly.  They show that he is a "Mr. everything" when it comes to photography and life.  There is no subject he is afraid to tackle or unwilling of his work.  I couldn't see it when the pictures were alone but when they are lined up like this I think the lines in most of them are in fact quite similar.  

As promised I am going to post a few more personal pictures from my digital camera because last week I did not have access to them.  Here are a few of them....




I personally like the two landscape photos the most because that is the type of photography I generally enjoy.  They were both taken from the top of Saint Peter's Basilica.  With the positioning of the trees, the lines of lights are somewhat different for the two photos.  The other two photos involve the Pope's final blessing this Past Sunday and a picture of my roommate with the Corviale housing building behind him.  





Here are a few still photos from Stanley Kubrick's films that you asked me to post.   The first photo is a still photo from Mr. Kubrick's Dr. Strangelove.  The 2nd and 3rd photo are from Kubrick's The Shining and the last photo is from his film 2001 A Space Odyssey.  The two pictures from the shinning are very similar with respect to their lines and color scheme.  The photo from 2001 A Space Odyssey shows just how different the type of camera he was working with actually was.  My favorite photo from these is the one from Dr. Strangelove.  I love the black and white and how he captures the emotions on their faces and the light coming in from the background.  

So I have it on my blog from here on out as a reference point.  With the film I am using this semester (Kodak 400 TX), the developing process goes as follows:  7.5 minutes in developer, flipping up and down 3 times every 30 seconds.  Next I put water in the container (20 degrees Celsius) for 30 seconds of constant movement.  Lastly I put it in the fixer for 3 minutes turning the container upside down 3 times every 30 seconds.  Then I clean the film with water and shampoo and I have successfully developed my film.    
 
 
 



Here are two pictures I took this week.  I really like the latter of the two because it is view of Vio Gregorio Settimo from the top of St. Peter's Basilica.  I happen to live on this road while I am here in Rome and really enjoyed seeing the view from such a monumental location.  I like the natural lines created by the roads running on both sides enclosed by the buildings.  The top picture is a picture of the Dome from the inside.  I was not able to get one that had good balance on both side but I enjoyed how the whole dome seemed to work together leading up to the center of the Dome. 

"His photographs are vintage Kubrick: a complex blend of composition, drama, light and mystery."
"No less than Steven Spielberg said: “Nobody could shoot a picture better in history.”




These are a few quotes I found when I was doing some research on Stanley Kubrick.  It speaks a lot of someone when Steven Spielberg comes out and says something like that.  It shows just how many people he influenced with his work.  I intended to post a list of  few photographers/directors that either worked with Kubrick or where influenced by him but I after research I realized the list is almost endless.  He was revolutionary with his work and always strived to get excel in his fields.  Above are a few pictures he took of New York City in the 1940s. The top one is a self-portrait that I really liked because it is one you see on a lot of people's facebook today with the usage of a mirror.  I love the natural light provided by whatever that is in the lower picture in a lab at Columbia University.  The two middle photos are very typical of his style and I thought they went well with the other two photos. 



Part I. Technical Review   (40 points)

Suppose your camera has the following settings:

aperture f1.8  f2.8  f4  f5.6  f8  f11  f16  f22

shutter    B  1   2   4    8   15   30  60  125  250  500   1000

(It is a manual slr film camera with a 50mm 1:1.8 lens.)

1.            Which f-stop allows the most light in? f1.8

2.            Which allows the least? f22 (+# less light)

3.            Which will give the most depth of field? f22

4.            What does depth-of-field mean? Distance between nearest and farthest objects appear sharp

5.            Where is the aperture diaphragm located? In the lens

6.            How is aperture measured? Lens diaphragm gear

7.            Which f-stop allows half the amount of light as f5.6? f8 (every stop is .5, 11 would be)

8.            Which allows twice the light as f5.6? 4

9.            What does focal length refer to? Distance between frontal lens to the film/shutter

10.        Besides aperture, what is another factor that affects depth of field? Focus and distance from the object

11.        Where is the depth of field scale located (on a traditional slr)? Close to the diaphragm

12.        What is the shutter and what does it control? Control the speed of open and close of the shutter, how much light is let in

13.        How is shutter speed measured? Shutter speed gear

14.        Where is the shutter located? Normally at the top of the camera or close to the diaphragms

15.        What kind of shutter speed is needed in low light conditions? Slow speed to let more light in

16.         What does “B” refer to? Shutter always open

17.        What is the safest slow shutter speed without a tripod? 60

18.        Which ss allows twice as much light as “60”(1/60)? 125

19.        Which allows half as much light as “60”? 30

20.        (4 points) On a given day, your camera gives you a correct reading of f4  at 250.  What other configurations would give you the same amount of light and a greater depth of field? (list four ways). By controlling the intensity of light reaching the film and controlling the length of time for which the light falls on the film. One of the easiest things you can do is position the subject you’re wanting to photograph as far away from any objects behind them as possible. 2 lenses with different focal lengths, many zooms have different max apertures at different points along the focal length spectrum. New lense because they have different maximum apertures.

21.        Which would give you the same amount (as above) of light and allow you to create a blurred picture of a speeding car? Slowing the shutter speed because when the shutter is open longer, the subject has more time to move across the frame and establish some kind of blur

22.        Which shutter speed would give you the same amount of light (as above, question 20) at  f2.8? a shutter speed of 1/60 will give you same amount as light at f2.8

23.        On a shadowy area with a bright sky, how would you insure a correct exposure of a subject in shadow? You have to move the f-stop to f16 and must make changes to the other side to have balance, to control the light you have to measure the light on the subject and increase the aperture

24.        (4 p)Which is a better setting, f4 at 1/60, or  f 16 at 1/4 ? Say why. F4 at 1/60 because the camera will give proper exposure

25.        What does ISO refer to? ISO is the number indicating a digital camera sensors sensitivity to light. The higher the sensitivity, the less light is needed to make an exposure

26.        What is a fast film and when should it be used? film that is more sensitive to light, meaning less light is needed to obtain a properly-exposed image, when taking photos of fast moving objects

27.        What is the major problem with fast films? Photos can be grainy if used for shooting in poor light

28.        What are the three chemical steps used in printing a photograph? You use the developer, fixer, and water to print

29.        List two (2 p) ways exposure is controlled in the darkroom. By keeping the room completely dark and through the entire printing process

 





 
 
The first picture above is a picture I took of a statue at the top of Gianicolo hill.  Following it are three diverse pictures that Mr. Kubrick took.  I love the background light in the boxing picture, the background focus in the trapeze photo and the nature light coming from the clouds in the roller coaster picture. 
 


 

Eve Arnol-short video from Magnum

http://inmotion.magnumphotos.com/essay/eve-arnold-memoriamclick on the link to watch the video


Monday, January 28, 2013

http://chromogenic.net/develop


How To Develop Your Own Film

film development equipment Besides offering you a more intimate role in the process, doing your own processing can possibly save you money and definitely save you time. It’s not difficult to do, and I guarantee that even a mediocre job will be better than the one done by most labs, simply by virtue of the fact that you’ll baby your film because it’s yours. Also, unlike a lab, you won’t be using watered-down developer from the lowest bidder, you won’t have to rush any part of the process, and when your negatives come out great you can take all the credit.
A quick note: these instructions will leave you with black & white film negatives, not photographic prints. Printing is an entirely different subject and requires a lot more infrastructure and patience. Besides printing, scanning is another post-development option, especially as more and more consumer flatbed scanners come with film adapters as a standard feature. You might already have all you need to scan and not even know it!
And a disclaimer: the method I’m outlining is a very non-technical approach with little concern for best practices. If your photography teacher saw you doing it this way they’d probably fail you. Masters of the craft use thermometers, real stop both, squeegees, filtered water, and more accurate timing. I’ve glossed over them here because I think it’s important to start with the basics and remove the pretense as a barrier to entry.

A Very Brief Overview of the Science Involved

There are entire books on the subject, but from a practical standpoint this is all you need to know: light gets reflected off surfaces and through the lens of a camera, past an open shutter, and falls onto a piece of plastic coated with layers of light-sensitive emulsion. Silver halide crystals in the emulsion react by forming clusters of silver ions, creating a latent image. When the film is submerged in developer, it transforms the silver ions into pure silver, leaving behind the halide crystals that weren’t struck by light. Those excess halide crystals are washed away with a second chemical called fixer, leaving metallic silver grains that are denser where the light was more intense during the exposure, producing a visible negative image.

Phase I: Acquiring the Necessary Materials

Here’s the bare minimum equipment you’ll need to develop either 35mm or 120/220 film. The links and prices given are from B&H Photo in New York for your convenience; I have no affiliation with them. You can get most of these things at any larger photography store, and you might already have a few of them around the house. Besides the development tank and chemistry, a lot of this stuff can be faked (but I don’t recommend it the first time around.) eBay is also a great source, especially for used tanks.
Total: $48.54 (as of August 2007.) Of course, you’ll also need some exposed film, and it’s probably a good idea to get some protective sleeves for storage. Even though I’ve listed Ilford chemistry, you can use it on any brand of traditional black & white film (Kodak, Fuji, Agfa, Efke, Macophot, whatever.) These chemicals won’t work with C-41 “black & white” film (such as Ilford XP2, Kodak BW400CN, etc.) When in doubt, check the packaging for any mention whatsoever of “C-41.”
Additional things you’ll need: a room that you can make completely dark (a bathroom works perfectly) or a change bag, a source of clean running water, something to stir with, an old towel, and a time-keeping device.

Phase II: Preparing the Tank

First, find your developing tank and take it apart. There’s essentially five parts: the tank itself, the center column, the reels, the screw top, and a red push cap. If you got a brand of tank other than the one I recommended you might have a couple extra items, such as a soft plastic ring for an improved seal around the top, or an agitation rod. By the way, developing tanks and reels come in two basic styles, the plastic kind and the stainless steel kind. Here I’m talking about the plastic kind, which I personally feel are easier to work with. The steel kind has a different top and no center column, and the reels are just metal spirals with nothing to help you ease the film in.
  1. If your tank is new, or even if it isn’t, rinse everything in hot water. Make sure there’s no dried chemical spots anywhere. If there are, just wipe them off with hot water and a wash cloth. Dry everything thoroughly before continuing.
  2. Replace the center column. Don’t forget this because it’s the key part that keeps the tank lightproof while still allowing you to pour in chemicals.
  3. Get one of the reels. If you’re developing 35mm film, you’re probably already good to go. If you’re doing medium format, you’ll need to adjust the size of the reel do accomodate the larger film. You’ve probably already noticed that the reel is in two parts and has a twisting mechanism. If you twist it a little bit past where it normally stops it should easily come apart. Don’t force it; if it doesn’t come apart easily, try twisting the other way. With the reel in two pieces, notice that one of the pieces has a long groove in it along the axis, with three lateral grooves that intersect it. The other piece has a little tab that locks into one of these grooves, depending on what width you need. The first groove is for 35mm, the second one is for 127 format, and the outermost one is for 120. Rejoin the reel by sliding the half with the tab along the long groove of the other half, then turning it into the shorter lateral groove of your choice. It should click into place, and still allow for some free twisting motion. This sounds more complicated than it is; once you have a reel in front of you it should make a lot better sense, I promise.
Your tank and reel are ready. Now you’ll need a completely dark space. Again, a bathroom works great for this, especially if it doesn’t have windows. A closet works well, too. It should be totally, utterly devoid of light. If you’re using a room and you can see light from beyond it around the seams of the door, you’ll need to seal it somehow. Use duct tape. You shouldn’t be able to see any light whatsoever. Did I mention that it had to be dark? Because it does. If you don’t have a windowless bathroom available, another option is getting a cheap change bag.

Phase III: Loading the Film

Before you turn out the lights, get everything you’ll need together right in front of you so you won’t have to fumble around in the dark. In addition to your tank, reel, and film, you’ll also need a pair of scissors and a bottle opener to get the film out of its canister. Also, if you have a dead roll of film or some you don’t mind destroying, it’s a tremendously good idea to practice loading the film onto the reel in the light before you do it for real. It might be a little tricky at first, but you’ll get the hang of it in no time.
  1. Have all the pieces of the tank out in front of you.
  2. Turn off the lights.
  3. Use the bottle opener to open the film canister. Pretend the bottom side of the canister is a bottle cap. If you’re doing 120 film, tear off the paper seal.
  4. Take the film out. Handle it around the edges at all times. Cut off the leader portion on the beginning of the roll and throw it away.
  5. Feed the end of the film into the little tabs that mark the beginning of the reel. Make sure it’s in by a few centimeters.
  6. Twist the reel back and forth. There are little ball bearings under the tabs that serve to grip the film and draw it in. Keep going until all the film is on the reel, then cut off the last portion that’s still connected to the spindle, which can now be thrown away.
  7. Put the reel into the tank over the center column. Screw the lid on straight and tight.
  8. Turn the lights back on and find your pants.
Your film is now in a lightproof tank. It can sit there forever if you want, so if you reach this point and want to leave it until next week that’s totally fine. The point of the reel is to keep the film from touching itself, which would cause it to stick together and develop unevenly, which would be bad.
washing film in-tank

Phase IV: Development

Here’s an overview of the process:
  1. Pre-soak (1 minute for 35mm, 5 minutes for 120)
  2. Developer (time varies, usually 7-12 minutes)
  3. Stop bath (1 minute)
  4. Fixer (5-10 minutes)
  5. Wash (20-30 minutes)
  6. Wetting agent (1 minute)
  7. Dry (4-8 hours)
1) Pre-soak. To start, all you have to do here is put some water in the tank and let it sit for a minute, then pour it out. 120 film should be soaked a few minutes longer than 35mm, and when you pour out the water it’ll probably be dark green or blue. I suspect this is because of the paper backing rubbing up against the film because there’s no difference between the emulsion used in different film sizes. Either way, don’t worry about it.
2) Developer. Before you do this step, make sure you know long you’re going to be leaving the developer in the tank because timing is critical. Check the Massive Dev Chart at digitaltruth.com, which should have your particular film/developer combination (it might also be printed on the developer itself). Once you have it figured out, use the beaker to prepare the appropriate dilution. For instance, if the time has “1+9” next to it, that means one part developer and nine parts water. If the total volume of your tank is 500ml (you can check by filling it with water and pouring it into the beaker and then pouring it out), you need 500/(1+9) = 50ml of developer, so pour that amount into the beaker and then fill it to the 500ml line with room-temperature tap water.
Pour the diluted developer into the tank. Don’t do it slowly, but don’t do it so fast that you cause the tank to overflow. Make sure you have enough to completely submerge the film. Once you’ve finished pouring, start your timer and put the push-cap on the tank. Agitate the tank for ten seconds once every minute while you’re developing. Don’t shake the tank like a can of soda, instead flip it over firmly several times. Once time is up, pour the used developer down the drain (don’t worry, it’s safe) and then immediately proceed to step 3.
3) Stop bath. If you were fancy, your stop bath would be a chemical designed to halt the developing process on contact. For our purposes, water will suffice nicely. Just fill the tank up with water, shake it a little bit, then pour it out. Repeat twice.
4) Fixer. The timing for the fixer isn’t as critical as the developer. In fact, it’s not critical at all. Prepare the dilution first (if you’re using Ilford Rapid Fixer it’s 1+4), then pour it in the same way as the developer. Agitate it for ten seconds, then again for ten seconds every minute. Fix for 5 to 10 minutes, then do another rinse.
5) Wash. After it’s been fixed, the film can be safely exposed to light. Unscrew the top of the tank and set it aside. Pull the reel out and take a look at the film to make sure everything went okay, but resist the temptation to take it off the reel just yet. Don’t worry if your film has a slightly purple tint; this is normal. If it looks excessively purple you might need to fix it a bit longer. Otherwise, you’re ready to wash. Techniques vary widely, but this is how I do it: fill the tank halfway with fresh water, agitate vigorously for half a minute or so, pour the water out, repeat. Do this for 10 minutes. You want it really clean; if there’s any fixer left on the film when it’s drying you’ll be sorry.
6) Wetting agent. This last step before drying prevents water spots and helps speed the process. Dump any remaining water out of the tank. Pour a very small amount of wetting agent into the bottom and then fill with water slowly until the reel is submerged. It may foam a little; if it does, tap the sides of the tank to shake any bubbles off the surface of your film. Leave it for 30 seconds, then pour everything out and take out the reel. Don’t rinse!
7) Dry. Twist the reel apart and lift one half of it off. Carefully pinch one end of the roll (where there’s no exposures) and lift the film off the reel, letting it unfurl. Don’t let it touch the ground or anything else. Anywhere dry and relatively dust-free will work fine, but I recommended hanging it up in your shower since it’s out of the way. The film clips come in a set of two, and one of them has a weight inside. The weighted one goes on the bottom of the roll, the other one goes on the top. Some clips have teeth that are designed to pierce the film in order for a better grip, which is a good thing; just be careful not to puncture one of your exposures. Once it’s up, leave it for 4 to 8 hours so it has time to dry and harden completely.
drying film

Phase V: Post-Op

When your film is completely dry, examine it for chemical spots or water marks. If it doesn’t look clean, feel free to put it back on the reel and wash it again. If it looks okay, you’re all set to cut and sleeve it. Congratulations! From here you can make a contact sheet, make prints, scan, tone, semi-destroy or anything else your heart desires.

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Helen

                                                              UAE, Dubai Fall 2012
                                                        Italy, Rimini Summer 2012 


     
Unknown Author






Sonya Melnik
Place of Birth: Odessa, Ukraine
Age: 20
Position: student
Hobby: photography








1) What is Aperture?

Aperture is a hole within a lens, through which light travels into the camera body. It is easier to understand the concept if you just think about our eyes. Every camera that we know of today is designed like human eyes. The cornea in our eyes is like the front element of a lens – it gathers all external light, then bends it and passes it to the iris. Depending on the amount of light, the iris can either expand or shrink, controlling the size of the pupil, which is a hole that lets the light pass further into the eye. The pupil is essentially what we refer to as aperture in photography. The amount of light that enters the retina (which works just like the camera sensor), is limited to the size of the pupil – the larger the pupil, the more light enters the retina. 

Work Cited:

http://photographylife.com

I do not remember who was going to post this picture, but I was intrested, so I found it, and it is amazing..


What is Depth of Field?


Depth of field refers to the range of distance that appears acceptably sharp. It varies depending on camera type, aperture and focusing distance, although print size and viewing distance can also influence our perception of depth of field.
One important thing to remember here, the size of the aperture has a direct impact on the depth of field, which is the area of the image that appears sharp. A large f-number such as f/32, (which means a smaller aperture) will bring all foreground and background objects in focus, while a small f-number such as f/1.4 will isolate the foreground from the background by making the foreground objects sharp and the background blurry.





Herbert List (October 7, 1903–April 4, 1975) was a German photographer, who worked for magazines, including Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Life, and was associated with Magnum Photos. His austere, classically-posed black-and-white compositions, particularly of male nudes, taken in Italy and Greece have been highly formative for modern photography, with contemporary fashion photographers like Herb Ritts being clearly influenced by List's style. He is also noted for his erotic street photography.






DEVELOPING PHOTOS


Steps: 
Step 1
Prepare the tank where the film will be placed. Get one reel where you will wind the film, along with scissors and film chemicals needed for film developing.
Step 2
Put the the tank, reel, film canister and tools inside a darkroom or in a black box or a change bag where the materials don't get exposed to any light.
Step 3
Load the film by removing it from the canister. Handle the film by the edges to avoid putting fingerprints on the film. Attach the end of the film into the little tabs in the reel. Twist the reel back and forth until it is completely wound around the reel. Make sure that the little ball bearings under the tabs are properly used to grip the film around. Put the reel into the tank and screw the lid tightly so the film is safe in the lightproof tank.
Step 4
Develop the film preferably using developing chemicals. Fill the tank with water through its top hole. Let the film soak for a minute then pour it out. Get your stopwatch or timer, and depending on the ISO/ASA, also commonly known as the film speed which is stated in the film canister or film box upon purchase, you must put the developer steadily inside the tank and time it anywhere between seven and 12 minutes. The film should be completely submerged, then agitate the tank (flip it over and over several times) for ten seconds, once every minute.
Step 5
Remove the developer, then readily fill the tank with water for the stop bath. This removes the chemical significantly left in the tank. Shake it a bit, replace the water, then remove the second set of water inside the tank.
Step 6
Put the fixer. Wash it thoroughly with water as there shouldn't be any fixer left on the film when it's drying.
Step 7
Put the final chemical called the wetting agent which helps prevent water spots. Pour a very small amount of the chemical then fill the tank with water. Leave it for 20 seconds then pour it out. Take the reel out of the tank. Clip one end of the film and hang it. Allow it to dry for a few minutes. Once done, cut the negatives with four to five frames each set.

HOW TO MIX CHEMICALS:

Developer:                Water:                    Fixer:
50/450                          500                       100/400

Water:  20C

The shutter speed is simply the length of time that the light hits the film or sensor allowing the image to be recorded. Each variation in speed (much the same as the aperture variations) is known as a stop.
You can get really creative with varying shutter speeds as we shall see in a moment but there is one important factor that you should always remember. AS mentioned in the Aperture chapter, whenever you adjust the speed of the shutter up or down, you must compensate in some other way, normally via the aperture but you can do it via the ISO setting or use of filters.
As you are letting in less light with a faster speed, you need to compensate and allow more light in via a larger aperture (creating less depth of field) or a higher and more sensitive ISO setting, and vice versa.






How to Enlarge a Black & White Negative




  • 1
    Insert your negative into the enlarger machine's carrier slot. Make sure the negative's emulsion side is facing up when inserted.
  • 2
    Open your easel and place the sheet of paper inside of it. "Speed easels" are hinged and can snap shut over the paper, and are easiest to use if you are a beginner.
  • 3
    Switch the enlarger's lamp on. Adjust the head of the enlarger so that the projection of the negative fits into the easel's frame. Some easels have different sized frames, so choose and adjust based on the size of the print you intend to make.
  • 4
    Focus the enlarger's projection by adjusting its knob. Using the negative's point of focus as a reference, get it as sharp as you can.
  • 5
    Pick up your focus tool and put it on top of the paper. This tool allows you to refine the projection based on the size of the grain in the negative. Take your time during this step to ensure a clear, accurate final result. Don't touch the knob once you have focused the projection.
  • 6
    Switch the enlarger's lamp off and remove the sheet of paper from the easel. You are now ready to insert a sheet of print paper and continue with the rest of the process.



    Midterm Exam
    Spring 2013                                                   

    Part I. Technical Review 
    Suppose your camera has the following settings:
    aperture f1.8  f2.8  f4  f5.6  f8  f11  f16  f22
    shutter    B  1   2   4    8   15   30  60  125  250  500   1000
    (It is a manual slr film camera with a 50mm 1:1.8 lens.)
    1.                  Which f-stop allows the most light in? F1.8
    2.                  Which allows the least? F22
    3.                  Which will give the most depth of field?  F22
    4.                  What does depth-of-field mean? The depth of field is when one can focus on the nearest or farthest object and make it appear sharp.
    5.                  Where is the aperture diaphragm located? On the lens
    6.                  How is aperture measured? Measured by using F stops which allows the amount of light to pass through the lens.
    7.                  Which f-stop allows half the amount of light as f5.6?f11
    8.                  Which allows twice the light as f5.6?f2.8
    9.                  What does focal length refer to? Optical system that can measure how light diverges or converges through the lens.
    10.              Besides aperture, what is another factor that affects depth of field? The depth of camera
    11.              Where is the depth of field scale located (on a traditional slr)? On a some they have a button but on most it is where one would also focus the camera. It is located on the outside of the outside of the lens. It is distance near, far and focal length.
    1                12.  What is the shutter and what does it control? The shutter controls the light to pass through to capture an     image.
    13.              How is shutter speed measured? Measured by the seconds that the camera shutter is open.
    14.              Where is the shutter located? On the outside of the lens.
    15.              What kind of shutter speed is needed in low light conditions? A slower shutter speed.
    16.               What does “B” refer to? Bulb- which allows for a longer exposure time.
    17.              What is the safest slow shutter speed without a tripod? No speed lower than the focal length which is 1/60 on a 50mm camera.
    18.              Which ss allows twice as much light as “60”(1/60)? 1/30
    19.              Which allows half as much light as “60”? 1/20
    20.              (4 points) On a given day, your camera gives you a correct reading of f4  at 250.  What other configurations would give you the same amount of light and a greater depth of field? (list four ways).

    21.              Which would give you the same amount (as above) of light and allow you to create a blurred picture of a speeding car?
    22.              Which shutter speed  would give you the same amount of light (as above, question 20) at  f2.8?

    23.              On a shadowy area with a bright sky,  how would you insure a correct exposure of a subject in shadow?
    24.              (4 p)Which is a better setting, f4 at 1/60, or  f 16 at 1/4 ? Say why.
    25.                What does ISO refer to? Measures the sensitivity of the image sensor. The lower the ISO the less sensitive to light it is. The higher the ISO the more sensitive it is. 
    26.              What is a fast film and when should it be used? Used for ISO and is used to measure the sensitivity to light. Has a higher sensitivity and will have more grain.
    27.              What is the major problem with fast films? Reduced images quality and more grain exposed.
    28.              What are the three chemical steps used in printing a photograph? Developer, water   and fixer. 
    29.              List two (2 p) ways exposure is controlled in the darkroom. Time and filter.
    30.              How is contrast manipulated in the darkroom? The filter and the time



    Pictures taken with my amazing PENTAX asahi K 1000





















    Final 
    30 April, 2013
    Diane Arbus
    1949, by Allan Arbus ( a film test)

    Diane Arbus (Nemerov) was born on March 14, 1923, in New York City. An artistic youth, she learned photography from her husband, actor Allan Arbus. Together, they found success with fashion work, but Diane soon branched out on her own. Her raw, unusual images of the people she saw while living in New York created a unique and interesting portrayal of the city. She committed suicide in New York City in 1971.

    BEST KNOWN FOR

    Photographer Diane Arbus's distinctive portraits showed the world how crazy (and beautiful) New Yorkers were in the 1950s and '60s. She was married to actor Allan Arbus.

    QUOTES


    "A photograph is a secret about a secret. The more it tells you the less you know."
    – Diane Arbus

    "Love involves a peculiar unfathomable combination of understanding and misunderstanding."
    – Diane Arbus

    WORKS

    Identical Twins, Roselle, New Jersey, 1967.
    This particular photo is one of the most widely used Arbus photos of her work. The image is a low resolution copy of the original work.Young twin sisters Cathleen and Colleen Wade stand side by side in dark dresses. The twin on the right slightly smiles and twin on the left slightly frowns.This photograph is echoed in Stanely Kunbrick film The Shining which features twins in an identical pose as ghosts. A print was sold at auction for $478,400 in 2004.
    Child with Toy Hand Grenade in Central Park, New York City 1962
     Colin Wood with the left strap of his jumper awkwardly hanging off his shoulder, tensely holds his long, thin arms by his side. Clenching a toy grenade in his right hand and holding his left hand in a claw-like gesture, his facial expression is maniacal. A print of this photograph was sold in 2005 at auction for $408,000.
    A Young Brooklyn Family Going for a Sunday Outing, N.Y.C. 1966

     Richard and Marylin Dauria, who actually lived in the Bronx. Marylin holds their baby daughter, and Richard holds the hand of their young son, who is mentally-retarded.
    A Jewish Giant at Home with His Parents in The Bronx, N.Y. 1970 

    Eddie Carmel, the "Jewish Giant", stands in his family's apartment with his much shorter mother and father. Arbus reportedly said to a friend about this picture: "You know how every mother has nightmares when she's pregnant that her baby will be born a monster?... I think I got that in the mother's face...." The photograph motivated Carmel's cousin to narrate a 1999 audio documentary about him. A print was sold at auction for $421,000 in 2007.
    A Very Young Baby, N.Y.C. 1968
    A photograph for Harper's Bazaar depicts Gloria Vanderbilt's then-infant son, future CNN anchorman Anderson Cooper.

    Basic Knowledge for the Final Exam

    Aperture - diaphragm in the lense, controls light and DoF; the bigger the number - the smaller opening less light –more DoF; the smaller the number- the bigger opening more light-less DoF.


    Shutter speed - in the camera controls amount of light let in; on the camera it can be :1-2-4-8-15-30-60-125-250-500-1000-2000-4000.

    ISO - sensor sentivity- higher ISO more sensitive-can appear grainy.


    How to use a camera:

    when sunny- 250/16
    when sun with clouds- 250/11
    when cloudy with sun- 250/8
    when cloudy- 125/8 or 60/11


    Structure of Film:


    1. Supercoat of Gelatin- protects the film
    2. Emulsion layer
    3. Substrate or subbing layer helps the adhesion of the emulsion to the film base.
    4. The film base or support.
    5. A backing layer on the rear which can counteract curling of the film.

    Most common is size of film is 62mm x 45mm

    How to develop B/W films:

    To develop a black and white film we need few things:

    - the reel;
    - cups --> Fixer (blue), Water (green), Developer (yellow);
    - tank
    - water --> Water must have a temperature of 20° C;
    - chemicals --> Rapid fixer, Ilsofol 3;
    - scissors;
    - a spirow;

    Before proceeding light must be turned off. Then we have:

    Put in the yellow cup: 50 ml of Isofol 3 + 450 ml of water (1 + 9);
    Fill the blue cup with: 400 ml of water + 100 ml of Rapid Fixer (1 + 4);
    Fill the green cup with 500 ml of water.

    How to print:

    Enlarger With the negatives the enlarger helps recreate the image and burn it onto printing paper.
    Use the aperture of enlarger to control light. Smaller aperture less light, lighter print, larger aperture, more light, darker print.
    Filter- higher filter more contrast

    After burning, pass paper to wet area of printing lab going Developer to water to Fixer, then wash and hang.

    Important to fix the print because it can get damaged with light.